Single Jersey vs Interlock vs Rib: Which Knit Fabric for Your Garments?
Single jersey, interlock and rib are the three most common weft-knit structures used in custom apparel. Buyers often specify them by feel or GSM without understanding how the structure changes drape, stretch, recovery and cost. Choosing the wrong structure is one of the most expensive mistakes in knitwear development — it affects fit, sizing stability and even how prints sit on the fabric. This guide compares the three structures so you can brief your factory with confidence.
Single Jersey: The Everyday Workhorse
Single jersey is knitted on one set of needles, producing a fabric with a smooth face and a distinctive looped back. It is the default choice for T-shirts and lightweight basics.
- Typical weight: 140–200 GSM for tees; up to 220 GSM for heavier basics
- Stretch: moderate crosswise stretch, but limited recovery — can relax and grow with wear
- Drape: soft and fluid, follows the body
- Behavior: edges curl when cut (a production consideration); may twist if the fabric is not properly finished
- Best for: T-shirts, dresses, lining layers, printed basics
Interlock: The Premium Double-Knit
Interlock is knitted on two sets of needles, giving two identical faces — both sides look like the smooth face of jersey. It is effectively two interlocked layers knitted together.
- Typical weight: 200–300 GSM, naturally heavier and denser than jersey at the same yarn count
- Stretch: moderate stretch with good recovery; keeps its shape well
- Drape: stable and structured, slightly less fluid than jersey
- Behavior: does not curl at edges — cleaner cutting and sewing; excellent surface for embroidery
- Best for: polo shirts, premium tees, babywear, lounge sets
Rib: The Stretch Specialist
Rib is knitted with alternating knit and purl columns (such as 1×1 or 2×2), creating vertical ridges on both faces. It is the stretch-and-recovery structure of knitwear.
- Typical weight: 180–350 GSM depending on end use
- Stretch: high crosswise stretch with excellent recovery — snaps back after stretching
- Drape: stretchy and body-hugging
- Behavior: used mostly as trim (necklines, cuffs, hems) or as full-body fabric for fitted styles
- Best for: cuffs, collar bands, hem trim, fitted tops, tank straps
Side-by-Side Comparison
- Face appearance: jersey — one smooth face / interlock — two identical smooth faces / rib — vertical ridges on both faces
- Recovery: jersey — fair / interlock — good / rib — excellent
- Edge stability: jersey — curls / interlock — lies flat / rib — curls slightly along ridges
- Relative cost: jersey — lowest / rib — moderate / interlock — highest (more knitting time, more yarn)
- Dimensional stability: interlock and rib 2×2 hold garment measurements better than single jersey over repeated wash cycles
How to Choose for Your Program
Match the structure to what the garment must do, not just how it should feel:
- Relaxed printed tees at volume — single jersey in 160–180 GSM keeps unit cost and print results on target
- Premium or baby garments — interlock gives a substantial, stable fabric with a clean face on both sides
- Fitted silhouettes and trims — rib (1×1 or 2×2) provides the stretch and snap-back that fit depends on
- Mixed programs — many styles combine all three: interlock body with rib collar and cuffs is a classic polo construction
Also consider fiber content: the same structure behaves differently in 100% cotton versus cotton-modal or cotton-poly blends. Blends generally improve recovery and reduce shrinkage, which matters most on single jersey.
FAQ
Q: Is interlock just double jersey?
A: Both are double knits, but interlock has a specific needle arrangement that produces two identical faces and a firmer hand than double jersey.
Q: Why does my jersey tee twist after washing?
A: Skewing usually comes from fabric finishing or sewing against the wale direction. Proper heat-setting and aligned cutting minimize it.
Q: Can rib be used for the whole garment, not just trim?
A: Yes — 2×2 rib bodies are common for fitted tops, but expect higher yarn usage and tighter size grading than jersey.
Q: Can I get samples in different structures?
A: Yes. We regularly knit sample yardage in jersey, interlock and rib so you can compare hand feel and drape before committing to bulk.
Request a Quotation
Tell us your target garment, weight and structure — or send a tech pack and we will recommend the best option. Ningbo Yuanchun Garment has produced knitted apparel since 2002, with a monthly capacity of around 200,000 pieces, MOQ from 500 pieces per style, and quotations typically within 5 working days (UTC+8).
Email: [email protected] or WhatsApp +86 135 8671 3410.
Factory inquiry
Request a specification review and quotation
Send your product type, fabric requirement, size specification, artwork and estimated quantity. Our team normally replies within 5 business days (UTC+8).